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| Most tourists visit in
Jordan Petra, shortly wadi Rum and sea, maybe some religious old places
as well. But there is almost no one in canyons and outside jeeps in
wadi Rum as well. Doing canyons and scrambling in wadi Rum, Jordan was
to my surprise quite off the beaten track destination. It was more suprise, because there are 2 quite good guidebooks for hiking etc. in Jordan, quite complementary in the end, so best to have both. Itai Haviv - Trekking and Canyoning in the Jordanian Dead Sea Rift is better for canyoning, more canyons, good route descriptions, but not very good maps, almost no coverage of wadi Rum and it is older. Tony Howard and Di Taylor - Walking in Jordan: Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs, and Canyons is newer, covers wadi Rum as well, but no so many canyons, e.g. not wadi Hasa. I wonder whether dedicated climbing guide from same authors is better for e.g. difficult scramble to Jebel Rum, because route finding using their maps in walking guide and misleading cairns in place is very difficult. Good new 1:50 000 topographic maps (but in arabic) can be dowloaded from from http://gaialab.asu.edu/Jordan/# Jeeps in wadi Rum are quite expenive, about 80 euro for full day tour, but one can as well walk and hitchhike many quite empty jeeps passing around between main sights. At some places, the desert looks like highway, but people tend to stay in jeeps only. And by walking, one can see the desert in different pace a way then from jeep. If you don't want to pay the terrible 50 euro entrance to Petra, take car to little Petra for 10 euro (overpriced as well, as most things in Petra) and walk for about 2hrs from there, good maps for Petra and this are in Walking in Jordan guidebooks. No one checks permit once inside the masses of tourists in central Petra and when leaving the paid area by main entrance. Do not walk away from Petra village by main asphalt road towards little Petra, you'll be to suspicious to police and park officers, they will ask you all the time where are you going (although little Petra is without permit). I wonder how it would go to try the great canyons of Mujib and Hidan in Mujib protected area (or national park or what) without compulsory guides and permits. I was afraid I would meet guided groups down at the end that would report me to park officers, so did not try it. But I met two French who did Mujib, met no one there and no problem. So next time, I would probably try these great canyons of Jordan independently as well. |
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