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Path around the Sarez lake. This lake is
a
unique beautiful treasure in the heart of Pamir. It arouse when an
earthquake in 1916 created a basin from this valley and local rives
filled this basin.
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Sometimes the path was very narrow,
across the
steep slopes. According to locals, even a cow can manage this. I still
can't believe this, although local cows are quite special in this way.
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One can see from this picture, that the
lake
fits a bit artificially to local surroundings. Like on the Moon a bit.
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Sarez lake near meteorological station
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The edge of Sarez lake. This is the dam
that
people are afraid could crack during some bigger earthquake. Flood
would go as far as the deserts of Uzbekistan. Radios (sponsored by EU)
are installed in every village down in the Bartang valley for emergency
information. They can be useful for organizing transport back to Rushan.
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Drinking from a tiny spring in a slope.
Although a lot of water can be seen (the lake), these mountains are
very dry in fact. Air is dry and there is not much snow here during the
winter as well (but quite cold).
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New ranger's hut near Sarez lake dam.
Although
this is the only place where tourists usually go (we came from opposite
direction), there are not many tourists here generally. Accommodation
was for free here as well.
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One ranger with a self-made guitar-like
instrument. Rangers report everyone passing by radio to local police,
so better to have the required permit (from Khorog). But they were very
kind and hospitable as all Pamiri Tajiks.
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The path leading from Sarez lake down to
the
village of Barchadif in Bartang valley.
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It is about a 1 day hike up to the Sarez
lake
(long day) and a short day hike down to Barchadif in the opposite
direction.
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Barchadif village. The only owner of a
car (for
going down the Bartang valley) was quite unfair. But not all villages
in this area have some car to disposal, so we continued with trekking
further down the valley, through Nisur village into Yapshok village.
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Although still very hospitable, people
are more
used to tourists in Barchadif, because this is the place where
occasional tourists start and finish their treks to Sarez lake.
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Our host in Barchadif.
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In our host's house in Barchadif.
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In Nisur village.
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In Nisur village
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In Nisur village. Small apricots are the
only
fruit in these dry mountains.
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In Nisur village.
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In the Yapshok village (bellow Nisur).
Our host
was a genuine person to remember for one's lifetime.
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In the Yapshok village (bellow Nisur),
singing
local songs.
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Crushing seeds from small apricots.
Cores of
this seeds was eaten instead of nuts.
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Bridge over Bartang river
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In Nisur village.
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Friendly and hospitable people in Yapshok
village. We passed 2 villages down Barchadif to find car in a nearby
village away from the main road (Savnob ?). But when this car finally
did not arrive for us on time, we went by Medicins Sans Frontieres
Toyota passing by and even for free.
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A toilet in the only tourist hotel in
Khorog.
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Better move to a house of
locals....here
with the driver of ZIL truck who took us along Pamir Highway.
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