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  Pakistan 2008 - Part 1 - Journey to Askole, trek to Payu - start of Baltoro glacier


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People of Pakistan

People of Pakistan

People of Pakistan

People of Pakistan - making chapati 

People of Pakistan

Nanga Parbat as seen on the way from Gilgit to Skardu. This was eventually our only chance to see the mountain due to clouds at other times.


  Desert like scenery in Shigar valley, on the way from Skardu do Askole.

Shigar valley, on the way from Skardu do Askole.

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The road to Askole was unpassable for jeep in 2 places, some jeeps were just captured in Askole therefore.

The road to Askole was unpassable for jeep in 2 places

Askole, the starting village for both restricted (compulsory guide and permit) K2-Gondogoro and free (no permit, no complsory guide) Bifafo-Hispar treks

We had problems at the army checkpost before Askole because of not having guide+permit.  Then again problems with the policeman in Askole ...  not optimistic outlook for unsupported K2 trek when we were still safely before the start of open Biafo-Hispar trek here.

On the trek, near Askole

On the trek, near Askole - praying porter.

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On the trek, near Askole

On the trek, near Askole

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On the trek, near Askole - we took some old path and got lost in the lower moraine of Biafo glacier.

Our first night, most of the time we did not sleep at standard campsites of official groups.  Partly to avoid too much attention from them, partly to have the freedom to finish the day when we wanted.

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Porters on the way to Payu. During our 12 days of trekking we met maybe 15 foreign trekkers and maybe 200-300 porters ... quite surprisng ratio. Due to bad security situation in Pakistan in 2008, numbers of tourists were very low generally.

Porters were generally quite neutral or friendly to us. Guides were a bit worse and the worse was one "manager" of Jula campsite, that we just passed. Some would be happy to report us to army camps on the way if they knew we were there without guide in reality.

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Water, especially not the muddy one, was quite scarce between Askole and Payu (still off glacier). Here we found one in the crack in rock.

But then, suddenly, the small stream became small waterfall and stopped being as clean as before.

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On the way to Payu .. great heat, backpacks of 35kg and just enough of water ...

On the way to Payu

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Payu campsite area, the last before the rock moraine of Baltoro glacier. Here, after sucessfully going through 2 army camps without being questioned or stopped, we finally began to believe we might make this trek unsupported. But 3 army camps are still ahead of us ...

Between Payu campsite and the beginning of Baltoro glacier. We camped here and were saved by very small stream from the rocks on the left.

 

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