intended to do
5-6 days trek from Nabusimake in the south (Valledupar area) to lake
Nabobo in the middle of the high mountains and back, as
descrited in old 1995 Lonely Planet Colombia and in Andes Trekking
guide as well. The access from south up started to be prohibited
by Arhuaco indians sometime in 1995.
But we were short of time, so
chose to try just the lower jungle from the sea (north). The path to
Pueblo Viejo was mentioned
somewhere on www by Alain Pereira, who filmed there and around his
famous documentary about Kogis.
The path prove to be very good, with
first part being even jeep road. We met tens of nice Kogis moving up
and down. This seemed to be the main and easiest access path to their
higher villages, e.g. Santa Marta, San Miguel, San Francisco, Macotama
etc. There's a school
nowadays in Pueblo Viejo, plus Colombian army camp somewhere near (we
were told) and some guerrilas
around - we were told that in school, we met Kogis only
fortunatelly and experienced no problem on the way.